<br />
Making Private Standards<br />
Work for You<br />
A guide to private standards in the garments,<br />
footwear and furniture sectors<br />
ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS<br />
<br />
<br />
This publication is the product of a project funded by Norad and implemented<br />
by UNIDO, in cooperation with CBI, Netherlands.<br />
<br />
UNIDO, Norad and CBI gratefully acknowledge the dedicated work of Mariëtte<br />
van Huijstee, Thijs Kerckhoffs and Bart Slob of SOMO (Centre for Research on<br />
Multinational Corporations, Netherlands), who served as the main authors of<br />
the Guide and Müge Dolun Bora (UNIDO) for supervising and coordinating the<br />
project and contributing to the numerous drafts of the Guide.<br />
<br />
This publication has been produced under the overall guidance of Lalith<br />
Goonatilake, Director, Trade Capacity Building Branch, UNIDO with support<br />
from Gerardo Patacconi (UNIDO) and Bernardo Calzadilla-Sarmiento (UNIDO).<br />
Mic<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 4" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=4">ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSThis publication is the produc</a> ACKNOWLEDGEMENTSThis publication is the produc<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 56" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=56"></a> <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 37" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=37"> Box 6: The H&M Code of Conduct The Swe</a> Box 6: The H&M Code of Conduct The Swe<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 35" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=35">Common topicsin buyer codes Requirements most </a> Common topicsin buyer codes Requirements most <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 15" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=15">EMERGENCE OF PRIVATE STANDARDSThe growing import</a> EMERGENCE OF PRIVATE STANDARDSThe growing import<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 43" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=43">PRIVATE STANDARDS:GETTING INVOLVED AND KNOWING W</a> PRIVATE STANDARDS:GETTING INVOLVED AND KNOWING W<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 76" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=76">Design, layout and production by Phoenix Design A</a> Design, layout and production by Phoenix Design A<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 34" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=34">Table 5: Common denominators in buyer codes of co</a> Table 5: Common denominators in buyer codes of co<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 72" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=72">The Rio Declaration consists of 27 principles and</a> The Rio Declaration consists of 27 principles and<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 64" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=64">HARMONISATION AND BENCHMARKINGClearly, buyers an</a> HARMONISATION AND BENCHMARKINGClearly, buyers an<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 60" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=60">NEW SUSTAINABILITY CONCERNS: WATER AND ENERGYEFF</a> NEW SUSTAINABILITY CONCERNS: WATER AND ENERGYEFF<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 17" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=17">CONTENTS OF THIS GUIDEThe Guide focuses on priva</a> CONTENTS OF THIS GUIDEThe Guide focuses on priva<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 13" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=13"> 1Introduction:why this guide?Today, more</a> 1Introduction:why this guide?Today, more<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 75" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=75">Table 1: The Landscape of Private Standards</a> Table 1: The Landscape of Private Standards<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 3" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=3"> Making Private Standards </a> Making Private Standards <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 32" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=32"></a> <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 74" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=74">72</a> 72<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 49" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=49">Box 14: Some reference tools for developing a cod</a> Box 14: Some reference tools for developing a cod<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 66" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=66"></a> <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 52" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=52">sector, and Oeko-Tex in the Turkish textile secto</a> sector, and Oeko-Tex in the Turkish textile secto<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 27" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=27"> Box 3: The Oeko-Tex certificate The Oek</a> Box 3: The Oeko-Tex certificate The Oek<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 36" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=36">SIMILARITIES AMONGST BUYER CODESIn view of the p</a> SIMILARITIES AMONGST BUYER CODESIn view of the p<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 6" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=6">ContentsSummary </a> ContentsSummary <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 39" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=39">Box 8: The Fair Labor Association (FLA)Incorpora</a> Box 8: The Fair Labor Association (FLA)Incorpora<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 73" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=73">ISO 26000The International Organization for Stan</a> ISO 26000The International Organization for Stan<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 12" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=12"></a> <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 47" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=47">PROACTIVE STRATEGYWhen confronted with private s</a> PROACTIVE STRATEGYWhen confronted with private s<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 70" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=70">authoritative guidance on labour practices and so</a> authoritative guidance on labour practices and so<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 11" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=11">greenhouse gas emissions over the entire life cyc</a> greenhouse gas emissions over the entire life cyc<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 61" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=61">consumption stage. One of the key criteria in lif</a> consumption stage. One of the key criteria in lif<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 24" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=24">APPLICATIONAnother important aspect of private s</a> APPLICATIONAnother important aspect of private s<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 14" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=14">the basic qualifications often involves the introd</a> the basic qualifications often involves the introd<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 63" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=63">Table 7: Compliance of Turkish ready-made and non</a> Table 7: Compliance of Turkish ready-made and non<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 54" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=54">Box 18: A message from developing country supplie</a> Box 18: A message from developing country supplie<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 7" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=7">BoxesBox 1: IKEA's IWAY standard </a> BoxesBox 1: IKEA's IWAY standard <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 26" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=26"> Box 2: The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)</a> Box 2: The Forest Stewardship Council (FSC)<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 53" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=53">SUPPLIERS' EXPERIENCE WITH PRIVATE STANDARDSThe </a> SUPPLIERS' EXPERIENCE WITH PRIVATE STANDARDSThe <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 55" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=55">53</a> 53<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 30" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=30"> Box 4: Social Accountability International and</a> Box 4: Social Accountability International and<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 1" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=1">Making Private StandardsWork for YouA guide to </a> Making Private StandardsWork for YouA guide to <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 68" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=68"></a> <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 16" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=16">In the case of technical regulations, such as cer</a> In the case of technical regulations, such as cer<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 2" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=2">DisclaimerThe designations employed and the pres</a> DisclaimerThe designations employed and the pres<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 19" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=19">Defining `a private standard' is almost impossible</a> Defining `a private standard' is almost impossible<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 8" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=8"></a> <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 20" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=20">prerequisite for initiating and/or continuing a b</a> prerequisite for initiating and/or continuing a b<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 50" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=50">Box 15: Some available sources of training suppor</a> Box 15: Some available sources of training suppor<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 28" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=28">Even though many private standards refer to one o</a> Even though many private standards refer to one o<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 44" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=44">demands in terms of labour conditions, on the oth</a> demands in terms of labour conditions, on the oth<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 46" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=46">REACTIVE STRATEGYThe reactive strategy basically</a> REACTIVE STRATEGYThe reactive strategy basically<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 59" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=59">Box 20: The Impact of the REACH regulation on buy</a> Box 20: The Impact of the REACH regulation on buy<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 57" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=57"> 5TrendsPrivate standards in the garment</a> 5TrendsPrivate standards in the garment<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 25" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=25">Table 4: Private Standards most often applied, by</a> Table 4: Private Standards most often applied, by<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 45" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=45">record of the resulting benefits measured against </a> record of the resulting benefits measured against <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 31" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=31">29</a> 29<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 33" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=33"> 3Buyer codes of conductsIn this chapter</a> 3Buyer codes of conductsIn this chapter<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 40" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=40"></a> <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 42" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=42">In terms of social, environmental and safety issu</a> In terms of social, environmental and safety issu<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 18" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=18"></a> <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 29" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=29">„ Verification of documents (e.g. payslips, birth</a> „ Verification of documents (e.g. payslips, birth<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 67" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=67"> 6In conclusionThis Guide demonstrates t</a> 6In conclusionThis Guide demonstrates t<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 65" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=65">Box 22: Harmonisation and Benchmarking – the Glob</a> Box 22: Harmonisation and Benchmarking – the Glob<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 62" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=62">competitive advantage or will force certain actor</a> competitive advantage or will force certain actor<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 48" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=48">1. Vision and CommitmentA proactive strategy wil</a> 1. Vision and CommitmentA proactive strategy wil<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 9" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=9">SummaryGlobal brand producers and retailers i</a> SummaryGlobal brand producers and retailers i<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 38" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=38">MULTISTAKEHOLDER INITIATIVESIn addition to monit</a> MULTISTAKEHOLDER INITIATIVESIn addition to monit<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 69" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=69">This glossary lists in alphabetic order the main </a> This glossary lists in alphabetic order the main <a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 23" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=23">Box 1: IKEA's IWAY standardIKEA is the largest h</a> Box 1: IKEA's IWAY standardIKEA is the largest h<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 41" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=41"> 4Strategies for developingcountry supplier</a> 4Strategies for developingcountry supplier<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 21" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=21">this makes brands and retailers in textiles and g</a> this makes brands and retailers in textiles and g<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 58" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=58">Box 19: From voluntary standards to legislation –</a> Box 19: From voluntary standards to legislation –<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 22" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=22">Some standards have been specially developed to a</a> Some standards have been specially developed to a<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 5" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=5">ACRONYMSASTM American Society for Tes</a> ACRONYMSASTM American Society for Tes<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 71" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=71">guidelines embody what OECD governments have agre</a> guidelines embody what OECD governments have agre<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 10" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=10">imply compliance with requirements related to bot</a> imply compliance with requirements related to bot<a title="UNIDO Guidelines_web.pdf page 51" href="http://viewer.zmags.com/publication/f54a93bd?page=51">Box 16: Some available instruments and tools for </a> Box 16: Some available instruments and tools for